Steven Raichlen's Project Fire

One Good Turn

One of the oldest methods of live-fire cooking, rotisserie grilling (aka spit-roasting) combines the smoky sear of direct grilling with the gentle, moisture-preserving heat of roasting. And that's before you add three other benefits: internal and external basting, no flare-ups, and the hunger-inducing fragrance of wood smoke. Game hens scented with garlic, cumin, and fiery Peruvian chiles acquire golden, crackling-crisp skin while turning on the spit. Meaty spare ribs take a cue from Hawaii's huli-huli chicken (huli means "to turn"). A sweet-salty, lacquer-like glaze of pineapple juice, soy sauce, and honey makes them irresistible. Finally, a spectacular whole spinning cinnamon-and sugar-crusted pineapple direct from Brazil. Los Angeles sommelier Kristine Bocchino recommends three wines to make the meal taste even better. Peruvian game hens with creamy salsa verde; Huli-huli spare ribs; Brazilian rotisserie pineapple.