Paul Murton explores the wilds of Loch Etive, from the spectacular tidal race of the Falls of Lora, where kayakers revel in the overfalls and ride a three-metre standing wave, to high-altitude camping on a hill opposite Buchaille Etive More. There he watches the sunset and the lights across the hundreds of lochans across Rannoch Moor. Paul then travels from Loch Gairloch to Loch Maree, a grand tour that includes meeting the king and queen of Islonia, watching a medieval feat of archery, diving on a wartime wreck in Loch Ewe, and ends up short-changed at the money tree on an island in Loch Maree.