"I came to Tepoztlan looking for the secret of authentic Mexican cooking and I found fabulous recipes that I will be cooking the rest of my life." Ruth Reichl In the mountains south of Mexico City, Tepoztlan stands guard over a wealth of traditional recipes and local specialties. At Cocinar Mexicano, classes are taught by local women whose knowledge and skills have been passed down through generations of their ancestors. Here, Ruth and Gourmet food editor Ian Knauer commune with all the many forms corn takes on-by milling ancient strains of corn for masa, stuffing squash-blossom tamales and mastering the tricky art of tortilla-making.